Fishing Florida’s East Coast

A recently read an article describing Florida East Coast fishing, but I think that the best spot of all was overlooked.

The place is not widely known, yet it has fine fresh and salt-water fishing, as well as hunting for squirrels and birds. It is about 20 miles north of Daytona Beach, and extends for only a few miles. I have never seen any other part of the coast like it. At some places deep sloughs lie between huge boulders close inshore. You can stand on the barrier, and at some spots even on the highway, and cast into deep water.

One reason why this location is such a rich feeding ground for fish is that the beach is thick with coquinas - small clam like creatures about the size of a thumbnail. The breakers of the incoming tide sweep hundreds of them out of the sand. They disappear into the sand so quickly that it is hard to catch one with the hand, but with a shovel and sand screen you can soon take a gallon, and they make a most delicious stew. I have seen channel bass 4 or 5 ft. long darting through the breakers for them.

Here at practically all seasons of the year you may catch a great variety of fish in such numbers that it almost ceases to be a sport. Even during a northeaster, when the ocean is too muddy for anything but catfish and shark, you have only to drop back a few hundred yards to the inland waterway which has an inlet at Matanzas and another below Daytona at Mosquito Inlet. Schools of speckled trout, bass, and bluefish pass through from inlet to inlet, and may be taken when the weather is too rough for surf fishing. At some places the waterway widens out into shallow lakes where oysters as large as saucers can be gathered with the hands.

On the beach side the variety is even greater. Some people say that pompano cannot be taken with hook and line; however, I have taken them in the surf near Flagler Beach many times, and consider them the gamest fish that ever struck my tackle. In fact, chances are that this fish will put several kinks into your light wire leader, or even break it.

Many nonresidents who visit the vicinity use live shrimp as bait for trout, but I have had just as good luck with cut shrimp, or even the simplest kind of a plug. The natives make plugs out of clothespins. The pin is somewhat flattened and the slot filled with lead. The plug is painted red and white, and a couple of gang hooks are attached. Many times I've seen trout strike such a plug when they would pass up a live shrimp.

Cut shrimp are used for whiting and bluefish, though I have caught plenty of the latter with nothing but a piece of red cloth on the naked hook. Cut mullet are used for channel bass, which are especially plentiful in the fall of the year. During one flood tide in the vicinity of the boulders mentioned above, I took five channel bass without moving 50 ft. The smallest weighed 20 lb. The next day at the same spot I hooked a tarpon. There wasn't room among the boulders to play that fish on my light tackle, so I lost the monster.

As for flounders and sheepheads, they are so abundant among the boulders that the natives make a business of snagging them on pitchforks, which are jabbed into the bottom around the inshore boulders at low tide.

The day before I returned home, I decided to corn some whiting. Taking a large tub and 2 lb. of shrimp in my car, I drove up the beach about half a mile on the highway which parallels the barrier. I fished back along the beach until I had taken a bucketful of whiting. I took these to the car, emptied them into the tub, and repeated this until I had fished about 3 miles of the beach. By noon, with that 2 lb. of shrimp I had taken 85 lb. of whiting, and a black drum weighing 8 lb.

Get a Line on the Sunfish

Panfish are a bonus to a vast number of Americans who appreciate them. But they're also passed up by anglers who haven't discovered their sporting qualities and thus miss a lot of extra fun.

When panfish are present in a body of water they're usually plentiful, although their size sometimes is unsatisfactory. They are willing biters, and when feeding will readily take natural or artificial baits. Hence they can be a challenge to fly-rod fisherman and cane-pole enthusiast. Not to mention the spinning rods or bait casters. I often call them Fun-fish instead of Sunfish.

Here we'll consider a few of the leading sunfish: the bluegill, pumpkin seed, green sunfish, red-breasted bream (or yellow belly), and long-eared sunfish. They are basically alike but differ somewhat in appearance, coloration, and size. All are courageous, hard-fighting fish, and make some really good eating.

The bluegill is perhaps the best known and most sought after of sunfish, and also the largest. Found in some streams, he is primarily a fish of the lakes, where he is taken summer and winter. His natural range comprises the Great Lakes region and a strip of southern Canada running eastward to Lake Champlain in New York; southward, it covers the Mississippi Valley to the Gulf States and the Rio Grande, and in the East to Florida. I guess I should just list the places they are not found – it will be a shorter list.

The bluegill's general color is an olive green, lighter on the sides, that verge on blue or purple in some specimens. Cheeks, top of head, and gill covers are bluish; the gill-cover flap, black. The bluegill often shows faint bars on its sides, but these are likely to fade quickly when the fish is taken from water. There is a black splotch on the posterior rays of the dorsal fin. The bluegill has no red or orange spots, as some sunfish do, but the forepart of its belly may be bright orange or yellow.



Length goes to 12 in. or more, and weight to more than 1 lb., but the average is less. The largest bluegill I've caught weighed slightly more than 1 lb., and it was a grand fish.

The species has been introduced into California and other states, and in some cases has done very well, becoming abundant and of good size.

A smaller sunfish, the pumpkin seed, attains a length of about 8 in. and a weight of 6 to 8 oz. It is found in northern ponds and streams from the Great Lakes to Maine and in the northern portion of the Mississippi Valley.

This fish is most easily identified by the red spot it sports on each gill cover. Its color is greenish olive shading into blue; its sides are spotted with orange, and its orange cheek has wavy blue streaks. Forepart of the belly is usually bright orange.

I've never caught pumpkin seeds running more than 1/2 lb., but they hybridize with bluegills, and the resultant cross may run 1 lb.

Our third panfish, the green sunfish, runs about the same size as the pumpkin seed, averaging smaller in some sections. It is found west of the Allegheny Mountains, from the Great Lakes to Mexico, being quite abundant in ponds, streams, and creeks.

The green sunfish's overall color is rather dull, a sort of olive green flecked with yellow. It isn't as deep-bodied as the pumpkin seed, and its mouth is noticeably larger than that of any of the sunfish under discussion here. It is sometimes mistaken for a bluegill because it has a black spot at the rear of its dorsal fin.
The red-breasted bream or yellow-belly reaches about 1 lb. It is most abundant east of the Alleghenies and south of New Jersey. General color is olive green, lightening on the belly. Along the sides there may be red spots, bright to dull, on a bluish background. Lower part of the head is marked with bluish stripes against an olive background. Breast ranges from deep yellow to orange. The yellow belly's ear flap is long, narrow, and black; hence, it's sometimes erroneously called the long-eared sunfish.

The true long-eared sunfish also has a long ear flap, noticeably broad in contrast with that of the yellowbelly. General overall coloration is brilliant - a mixture of blue, green, orange, and yellow. There is a wide variation in the color pattern of these sunfish, among the most brightly colored of all freshwater species.

The long-ear is also one of the most abundant of our fish, ranging from Michigan and Minnesota to the Rio Grande in the West and South Carolina in the East. Length runs to 7 or 8 in., but the long-ear's body is chunky and its weight good compared with that of the yellowbelly.



All five of our sunfish follow the same spawning pattern; they nest in colonies in water from about 8 in. to 3 ft. deep. The males form the nests by fanning away sand and gravel; they pick up larger stones in their mouths and drop them outside the nest. If the bottom is muck, instead of sand or gravel, the males fan away the mud until underlying submerged sticks or weed roots are revealed. Generally the nests are round or oval, but have less symmetry on a rough bottom. The female's eggs are adhesive and will stick to gravel, wood, or to one another.

When the females are ripe they enter the nesting area and the males attract them to the nests. Having spawned, a female leaves the nest, but the male remains on guard, hovering over the eggs and farming them with his fins to keep them free of silt. During this period he will fearlessly attack predators much larger than he is. Hatching time is very short - a matter of days.

Sunfish live in both weedy and rocky waters. They seem to prefer the rocky shoals to deeper water, and- lie at the edges of weed clumps rather than directly in them. However, thick weed beds are a haven for immature fish; they slide easily among the tangled stems and fronds that discourage predators.

In water that is not entirely suitable, sunfish propagate and increase but never attain good size. I know some lakes, primarily trout waters, where the sunfish remain stunted. But they have taken over other lakes and put the trout in the background.

Worms are traditional bait for sunfish, and for me any worm fills the bill. It can be the ordinary garden variety or a night crawler. It can be an inchworm or a worm from cow or horse manure, if you can find any of the latter these days. Or it can be a nice, lively, whitish worm dug from the banks of a bog stream. It can be any worm or in the muck, so long as it can be properly impaled on a suitable hook. On the whole, I'm satisfied with night crawlers or earthworms, but there are times when other things seem more attractive.

I have also found minnows to be good bait. I've taken large bluegills with them while fishing for bass, and sometimes got green sunfish on small minnows. Occasionally - but not very often - I've taken pumpkin seeds or yellowbellies with minnows.

Sunfish have small mouths, so they have not been fitted by nature to be fish eaters. However, when hungry they'll attack a minnow. But they're more likely to kill, mangle, or steal your bait than get caught on the hook. (Of course, I'm excluding such members of the sunfish family as - the rock bass, crappie, and the king of them all - the black bass.)

I'd say that the sunfish we've been considering are feeders on insects and their larvae, small crustaceans, snails and their kin, and a certain amount of vegetable matter. I've found plenty of these things in their stomachs but have rarely discovered fish, and then only in large specimens or when anglers had been baiting with minnows.

Because of their feeding habits, the sunfish respond well to artificial flies, either wet or dry, and to bug-like or wormlike artificial baits as well. My favorite flies are few. For drys, I like the McGinty or any other "bee" pattern; a Black Gnat with a fat body of chenille or peacock herl; a Coachman or, occasionally, a Royal Coachman; a White Moth; and a Black Alder with peacock herl or black-chenille body and brown deer hair tied horizontally along the hook shank. I think sizes 8 and 10 are most useful, but I lean a lot to 12's when the water is calm.

I also like small bugs with cork or hair bodies in the general color range of the flies. A black body with a white-hair or hackle tail is sometimes excellent, as are also the Coachman, Brown, and bee patterns. Size 10 kinked shank hooks suit me here, but if the fish run larger, size 8 (or even 6) is sometimes better. You are also likely to pick up good bass on these larger ones.

I like wet-fly and nymph patterns in sizes 8, 10, and 12. My favorite patterns are the McGinty or other bee-like pattern with a bulky yellow-and-black body: a Black Gnat with heavy body; a Silver Doctor that's a cheap imitation of the salmon pattern, with some guinea fowl used; Alexandria-two patterns, one with white and one with scarlet hackle; and Brown Hackle with red-wool tag.

In fishing' dry flies, try a number of different tactics. Sometimes a sunny will be attracted to a fly or bug if you let the lure lie still on the water after you drop it there. I think that is always the best way to start. When it's lain there for some time give it a slight twitch. Pause and do it again, repeating as necessary.

Don't become impatient and lift the fly too quickly from the surface. Sometimes you'll get your strike when the lure is close to the boat. If slight twitches don't work, try snappier ones, but be gentle at the start. When you have found the retrieve that works best that day, stick with it as long as it continues to produce for you. Each day will be different then the last.

A 6-ft.-long leader is usually adequate but I like longer ones, especially if the water is clear. One that is 7 1/2 ft. long and tapered to 2X makes a good general length and weight. In sunfishing, the line should float; otherwise it will be difficult to make the surface twitches of the lure lifelike. And the floating line keeps the fly dry and riding well.

If you use wet flies, soak them before you start fishing so they'll go under as soon as they hit water. As the fly sinks watch line or leader; often a strike comes as the fly goes down and you'll notice it by a twitch on the line or leader. Then be quick on the trigger to set the hook.

Otherwise let the fly sink until it reaches bottom, then start it upward without a jerk so you'll avoid snagging a weed. As you do this, be prepared for a strike; a fish may have been watching the fly sink and get interested in it only when it "comes to life."

While there are a number of ways of fishing a retrieve I think the best is the "hand twist," which experienced fly fishermen have been using as long as I can remember. It's easy to learn but difficult to describe.

Let's try, anyway. At the start of the retrieve, take the line between the tips of thumb and forefinger (palm of hand up). Then swing the hand over clockwise until palm is down; that moves the line in several inches. With the hand in that position, take line between the fourth and little finger; then swing the hand counterclockwise until it is palm up. That moves the line several inches more. Keep repeating these two moves; the fingers will learn to perform them almost automatically. That way you'll bring the lure toward you in short, rhythmic jerks of 3 or 4 in. When the movement becomes natural you'll find that it is possible to regulate its speed nicely.

This retrieve is necessary if you're to get the best out of wet-fly fishing. Of course, you can give the fly a jerky retrieve simply by retrieving the line sharply. And that's the thing to do when circumstances call for sharp, fast jerks.

Other times you can interest the fish with rod action alone. That happens mostly when you're making short casts of 25 ft. or less. Retrieve by starting the rod low at the end of the cast; produce short jerks on the line as you raise the rod to vertical. When the rod is at about 10 or 11 o'clock (assuming you're facing 9 o'clock) you should be able to pick your fly or flies from the water without appreciable effort, preparatory to making the next cast.

At times in sun fishing, a fuzzy dry fly (such as a palmer or bivisible), thoroughly soaked and fished wet with decided jerks, is quite effective.
While almost any fly rod may be used in sunfishing, the lighter it is, the more fun you'll have. A 7 1/2 or 8-ft. dry-fly trout rod is fine, and will handle bass if you happen to tie into one.

Fishing With Floats

How To Make Fishing Lures.

A float when fishing does two jobs: it lets the angler know when his bait has been taken, giving him a visual point where the line enters the water. It also dangles the bait at a pre-determined distance between the top of the bottom and the bottom. As with every other piece of tackle, the angler must know what fish he is after and what the characteristics of that fish are in order to select the correct tackle.

Some fish are naturally suspicious of bait attached to a float. Although it appears to float invisibly in the water, the bait resists attempts to move it or swallow it. Some fish, particularly a luderick, will immediately release bait from its mouth when it feels the drag of a float from above. A float should bob on the surface in a state of neutral buoyancy. The slightest tug from below will be transmitted to the angler and will not alert the fish to its presence. The ideal use of the float therefore requires a careful balance between the weight of the float and the use of a splitshot sinker or weight.

The difficulty of using a line with a float is usually in the length of line between the float and the hook, which is hard to manage during casting. Ideally a float should be rigged so that it runs along the line and stops at a pre-determined point on the line with the use of a splitshot sinker or swivel. This point is the desired depth at which the angler would like his bait to dangle underneath the water.

The shape of the float is almost as essential as the weight or buoyancy of the float. The bobbing cork of the rock fisherman must be able to support the weight of the bait as well as the turbulence of the water washing back from the rocks. There is no need for it to as sensitive as the float of the estuary fisherman who would use a long slender float with a sensitive tip.

Tip! If you're looking for tunas, find the dolphins because Yellowfin tuna are usually found schooling with dolphins. So if you see a group of dolphins, chances are there are some tuna in the area.

The bubble float is a favourite among trout and mullet fishermen. It is a clear, plastic ball with plugs, which allow the angler to partially fill the ball with water and hence regulate its weight and where it sits on the surface of the water. Some floats are designed to lie straight on the surface of the water and only stand upright when registering a bite from below. These floats are not popular however as they are difficult to locate and track before the bite. Luminous floats can also be used, however these are not popular either as the luminous fades after a short time.

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Colours of a float are important only to the individual angler and the best is determined by their ease of sight in various types of water.

With the exception of the lying-down type of float, all other floats should ride upright in the water. If they don't, it is because they are either out of balance, or need an extra weight affixed to the line underneath them to draw them into an upright position. The bait may also be resting on the bottom, the water being shallower than anticipated by the angler.

Tip! Some fishing lodges advertise a certain amount for a few days by the lake. It is advisable to ask if there are any hidden charges.

To thread the float, simply pass the line through the eyelets of the float and then at the depth at which you want your bait to dangle, affix a splitshot sinker or other device to stop the running of the float along the line beyond that point. There should be just enough pf the float above the water to make it visible to the angler. Too much and the wind will catch the stem and blow it away. Experienced anglers can then watch their float and know instantly what is happening beneath the surface where their bait is. The float disappearing from view is a good indication the bait has been taken and time for the strike.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Fishing

Fishing Fall Bass - Early Fall Fishing for Bass in the Northwest as the Seasons Change

Tip! These are only some of the many styles and tips on how to progress and enhance your bass fishing strategy. But if you do not have any plan at all, you may really get dissatisfied from time to time.

You have just rolled out of bed, poured you coffee and there it is. You knew it
was coming, but it is real, it is here. What am I talking about? It's not taxes,
the Grim Reaper or even your in-laws coming for an extended stay. It is the first
foggy Fall morning. If you have spent any time in the Northwest you know what
that means. From here on out the weather will never get quite as hot as it did
all summer, and the nights will be cooler. Sure, we may get an Indian Summer and
some nice days, but the fact is, things are cooling off. Now it is time to start
thinking about what that means for our Bass fishing.

With the falling temperatures, Bass will start to build up their Winter reserves.
This can offer some fantastic fishing opportunities if you know what to look for.
Big Bass that have been hiding deep all Summer are now moving up and looking for
as much food as they can. Their feeding periods will also lengthen as the Sun
drops to lower angles. All the better for us!

Most experts would agree that Fall Bass are suckers for the right crank bait.
This means you probably will grab lures that are a little bigger than you have
been using all Summer. The Bass that have made it to Fall are smart and will be
looking for lures that closely match the size and color of the prey fish that
spawned in the Spring. Check out what is in your lake and match up to that. Another
good choice is to grab your top water lures. Again, the big Bass are looking to
load up on food and will be watching for any easy meals above them.

Finding the Bass is of course key. But where are they? The simple answer is, where
the bait fish are. These are most likely going to be found in closer to shore
than they previously were, hanging out in the shallows and around the green plants.
My favorite tactic to find bait fish is to bring along an extra pole rigged with
a small jig and bobber and when I am exploring a lake, drop it out in front of
me and let it sit on a hole before I start throwing my Bass hooks at it. I also
toss it out when I am changing or re-tying lures. If there are bait fish there,
then odds are, the Bass are lurking near by.

Important things to look for are areas where there is cover for the Bass to move
between their deeper holding areas to the shallow feeding areas. Also remember
on cloudy and windy days or in stained water, the Bass may not retreat at all
to their holding areas, but may spend the day feeding in the shallows. Pay attention
to water that is shallower than you would normally expect to find big fish. I
have seen large Bass lurking in water as shallow as one foot.

On bright days or after a cold front has moved in, you will have to go back to their mid-day holding areas to find the Bass. Remember that a cold front will affect the shallow water first and the Bass will most likely hold to the deeper water and its more stable temperatures. In this case, it is time to finesse fish a little bit and work the deeper structure. Remember drop shotting?


Don't think that the falling temperatures means a let up in the Bass fishing. Lunker Bass are waiting for you. Grab yourself an extra pull over and get out there on the water, the fish are waiting!

Chris Cliff is a long time fisherman that hails from the remote lands of Northern Idaho, but has now moved to the big city. He and his crew fish the waters of the Northwest filming episodes of their own web based fishing show 'Fishing with Cliff'. You can find it at http://www.FishingWithCliff.com/ and features more great articles, photos, links and of course episodes of their show. Think of it as a fishing show crossed with reality TV.

Fishing Trip Tips

Tip! Use a wire cross-locking snap when fishing crank plugs. It allows you to change lures quickly and enables the bait to vibrate more freely.

Fishing can be a relaxing way to spend your weekends. It has been proven that fishing is one of the all-time treasured experiences of thousands of American families. However, any sport has its dangerous side and fishing is no exemption.

Majority of fishing equipment you will be using have sharp points or edges, such as metal hooks that may lead to accidents when the fishing environment unexpectedly changes for the worse. Storms, hurricanes, wild currents, and other mishaps, could spoil your fishing trip as well. Use your God given common sense the same way as everything else you do in life and all will go well.

If you are planning to go on a fishing expedition with your family or friends, here is a list of only 4 urgent situations that could come up and what preparations you need to be ready for in each situation.

1) Weather - Before packing up your bags and traveling to you fishing spot, consult or be aware of the weather conditions for the day and the following days. Whether you are fishing on shores or in a boat, you should be cautious of the conditions such as flash floods, storm movements and darkening of the skies. When signals such as extreme lightning strikes, you should head to dry land immediately.

Tip! Fishing for snooks is quite similar as fishing for bass. Snooks like to be around ledges, posts and rocks.

Having a sun-drenched day is not really an "appropriate fishing day." You should be aware that spending many hours with exposure to the sun could damage your skin. Be prepared by bringing sun block to avoid sunburns. You should be aware of heat sickness symptoms such as nausea, breathing difficulty, lightheadedness, and unable to concentrate on tasks. Prepare a supply of water or liquid beverages to keep hydrated.

Tip! Before going deeper into the technicalities, make sure that a fishing license is secured.

2) Sharp fishing equipments - Since fishing includes many sharp tools, you should always be prepared to treat injuries by packing disinfectants such as medicated lotion or spray and hydrogen peroxide. If an incident leads the skin to bleed, you would need bandages, cotton or paper towel. Bring your own first aid kit.

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3) Tangles - One of the most common fishing hindrances is wherein your line is caught in anything surrounding your fishing spot such as trees, logs, etc. Try to get your line or fishing rod out of the tangle immediately to avoid the problem that could lead into a major accident. You could either snap off the branches of the tree or carefully and slowly remove your line away from where it is tangled.

4) Bait - When you run out of bait, it could spoil your fishing trip. Avoid this by splitting up the rest of the bait into halves, quarters or thirds. The worm, even if divided, could still move, so the divided worms could still lure your target fish.

Be prepared to face any scenario to keep your fishing adventure as relaxed as possible. With all these in mind, you will enjoy your fishing trip safely and successfully.

New to Fly Fishing?

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Fly fishing is an exciting sport and it has unique challenges. Just choosing the equipment you'll need presents a challenge, but by doing a little research first you'll be an expert at picking your fly fishing equipment in no time.

Picking out your equipment can be a lot of fun or it can be a daunting task that you're not looking forward to. Realize up front that you can end all the mystery by picking out a combo pack that typically includes the fly fishing rod and reel, the line and leader, and usually a an accessory pack to get you started on the flies.

If you do decide to purchase your fishing equipment separately, realize that your rod, reel, and line will all need to coordinate with each other. The fly fishing rod and reel will typically have numbers on them; this number corresponds to the line weight and you'll want to coordinate the proper line weight with that of the rod and reel.

You can usually find a helpful salesperson in a fly shop. They are used to assisting beginners who aren't exactly sure of what they need. It's important to realize that the equipment you purchase is dependent upon what you will be fishing for and where you will be fishing. The salesperson will probably ask you these questions so he can select the right equipment for you.

Even if you decide to go with a combo pack the first time out, it's important that you buy that in person in a brick and mortar store instead of online. As you gain experience into the exact equipment you need, you'll be more qualified to buy something sight unseen.

However, for your first fly fishing excursion, you'll want to be able to physically feel and cast the line before you buy the rod and the reel.

Once you go on your first fly fishing vacation, you'll get a much better idea of what works for you and what you might need to replace.

Rashme Wong is a successful Webmaster and publisher. She provides information on above article's topic.

Just Bitten by the Bass Fishing Bug? A Basic Equipment List

Bass Fishing Secrets. Beginners Bass Fishing Guide. Increased Payouts, Re-designed Site.

Bass fishing for many begins the first time they get that hit and proceeds from there to become a lifelong avocation. If you have just discovered bass fishing then it's time to start accumulating your bass fishing tackle. Over the course of your bass fishing lifetime you will probably have many rods and reels, literally hundreds of lures and a wide variety of storage boxes. However, the first gear you buy need not be expensive or abundant as long as it suits the needs of a novice bass angler.

Rods. As you become more experienced you may find that you want several rods of varying lengths and made out of different materials. A good first rod for a neophyte fisherman is generally five and a half to six feet long and made of graphite, fiberglass or a graphite/fiberglass blend. Longer rods may give more reach in casting but they also require more nuance. Look for a balanced, medium weight rod. As the term implies, that is a rod which has its weight evenly distributed from end to end.

Reels. Once you have chosen your rod, select a complimentary reel. Consider a rod and reel combo package. Many beginning fishermen shy from this simple answer to tackle selection; after all, buying stuff is half the fun. Still purchasing an inexpensive rod and reel bundle allows you to get the feel for bass fishing gear before making a large investment. If you have decided to make separate purchases, check out the spincast reels. They have fewer line tangle problems and provide smooth casting and retrieval. Most also allow for a wide variance in lines and lures.

Lines. Most rod and reels will recommend the line weights that harmonize well with them. In general, a 10# line will hold up well in the vast number of situations you'll encounter. As you become a more sophisticated angler you will learn the many factors that go into proper line selection. Strength, resistance to breaking, stretch, diameter, even color are all important in making more sophisticated line choices. Don't worry about those now though; just buy a high quality line.

Lures. Choosing the right lure for the right area and the right bass is key to successful bass fishing. If you are going with experienced fishermen or with a guide, they will be your best resource for information on what lure or bait to pack. The number one bait out there though is the humble worm. Stock up on these in a variety of colors and pick up a few inexpensive spinnerbaits.

Tackle boxes. Here again many new fishermen go for the fully featured models, the more drawers and trays the better. Quite often though the more places you have to put things the more ways you have to lose them. Start out with a simple tackle box with a large open bottom and a few small trays.

Now you're ready for the most fun of all: Bass fishing. Hit the water, be safe and good luck.

If you want to catch more bass you need to come over to http://www.AllAboutBassFishing.com. We provide many tips, tactics, articles and more to help with your next bass fishing adventure. Whether you fish for largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, peacock bass, or any other type of bass we can help you.